Hanging out in … Downtown Grand Rapids
Written by Steven G. de Polo
With a fun mix of trendy restaurants, hip bars and indie shops, downtown Grand Rapids has hit its stride. You can find stuff to do and buy along walkable streets with interesting characters and lovely architecture at almost any time of the day. But still no Whole Foods.
When I have visitors from out of town, I take them to the B.O.B. (20 Monroe Ave. NW). Literally a Big Old Building, this 1903 red brick structure served as a warehouse for the Judson’s Grocery until being abandoned. The Gilmore Collection saved it from demolition and transformed The B.O.B. into a multi-level restaurant and entertainment complex that would fit into much bigger cities.
Start your evening at The B.O.B. with The Monkey Bar, a casual Asian-inspired bistro. Share a selection of small plates ($3.99), such as the Pomegranate Lacquered Chicken, Sesame Crusted Salmon and famous Smoked Gouda Fritters. With a happy tummy, you are ready to hit B.O.B.’s Brewery, which is overseen by new brewmaster John Svoboda. He has rebuilt the brewery, which now offers handcrafted favorites like a classic IPA, as well as more inventive offerings as Mango-Chipotle Ale
. For your main course, head up to J Bar @ Judson’s. Quality and value meet at this steakhouse with its tastefully upscale charm. Try the popular $12 grill menu, which offers $12 New York strips, prime rib and more. You have several entertainment options after dinner. Looking for laughs? Grab a seat in Dr. Grins Comedy Club, which hosts nationally acclaimed comedians and local goofballs (i.e. Sarah Jean Anderson) Thursday–Saturday evenings. Wanna go dancing? The Crush Nightclub offers the quintessential nightclub experience with a spacious dance floor, the best DJs, and VIP access with bottle service.
For a relaxed dining experience, try 25 Kitchen + Bar (25 Ottawa Ave. SW). Conveniently located across from Van Andel Arena, this bi-level hotspot boasts 25 signature cocktails, 25 draft beers and a savory selection of 25 locally and internationally inspired wood-fired pizzas. It is a nice replacement for the Margarita Grill, which featured 25 keloid scars and 25 venereal diseases. (Poppa Steve went to Margarita Grill once and his credit rating dropped 50 points.) 25 Kitchen + Bar also features eccentric sharable plates and a mouthwatering selection of unique entrees crafted by Executive Chef Steve Brechting that you can enjoy on their spacious patio. Every Tuesday night, the restaurant features performances by local singer/ songwriters Eric Allen, Kari Lynch, Mark Sala and Jeff Linsell, paired with Michigan microbrews and wines. The restaurant’s Happy Hour, Monday thru Saturday 2 p.m.-6 p.m., offers $2.25 drafts, wells and wines as well as half-off appetizers.
Z’s Restaurant & Bar (168 Louis Campau NW) is easy to miss but never forgotten. Z’s is a classy dive with huge windows, high ceilings, and high-def TVs. This is the place to go downtown when you are hungry after midnight. The kitchen serves until 2 a.m. (1 a.m. on Sundays), which can come in handy after a concert or play. In fact, food-service folk in Grand Rapids all head to Z’s after their shifts for good food and cheap drinks. Z’s is known for its barbecue spare ribs, which have won the Taste of Grand Rapids seven times. The rest of the menu includes pub grub done right, like the 9-Layer Dip, Roast Beef Asiago Sandwich and Black and Bleu Burger. The bar has a daily happy hour from 2–7 p.m. and $2 drink specials.
Don’t miss these other downtown hot spots. FOUNDERS (235 Grandville SW) serves up strong and flavorful microbrews that challenge the conventional beer drinker’s tastes and, occassionally, their sense of equilibrium. A few Founders brews even touch double-digits in alcohol by volume (ABV). You’ll need to know four digits — 1930 — to get into the secret entrance of The VICEROY (53 Commerce Ave.). The Prohibition-era speakeasy features highballs and finely crafted cocktails like the Devil’s Dishwater, a mixologist’s concotion of Buffalo Trace Bourbon, Wisniak liqueur, Mata Hari absinthe, Green Chartreuse and lemon bitters. Sounds positively Mephistopholean. Right next door, you’ll find STELLA’s, a punk-rock whiskey bar with more than 200 varieties of the fermented grain mash, plus some ‘80s era video games and classic cans of Blatz, Stroh’s and, of course, PBR. What hipster wouldn’t want to drink there? Both Viceroy and Stella’s share a kitchen, where they cook up some of the most interesting vegan food in town, as well as juicy burgers and appetizers like Blue Cheese Chips and Forest Mushrooms.
If wine is your thing, Bar divani (15 Ionia Ave. SW) is a wine bar without the Boston ferns. The unstoppable Miss Carolita prefers the Hoisin-Glazed Lamb Chops and the Spinach Artichoke Dip. By the end of the month, you’ll also be able to sip at the new RESERVE (201 Monroe NW), which plans to serve more than 100 wines by the glass. The new bar will feature a custom-made cruvinet, a system that keeps the wine fresh and chilled for up to six months after a bottle’s been uncorked. While you’re thinking about sipping, keep in mind that schuler books (86 Monroe Center) also serves up Cabernet and Chardonnay alongside copies of Eat, Pray, Love and Sarah Palin’s latest literary effort.
Bistro Bella Vita (44 Grandville Ave. SW) is a California-style Italian bistro that could be found on Cannery Row. Known for an extensive wine list, yummy sangria and entrees made with locally sourced ingredients, the Bistro always impresses. Hop Cat (25 Ionia Ave. SW) is only the third best beer bar in the world. With a charming old-world interior, upscale tavern menu and 48 beers on tap, Hop Cat is transforming the fine dining experience in Grand Rapids. Just avoid the Crack Fries, which are less cocaine and more plumber’s. While the weather is still warm, Hop Cat has one of the finest outdoor patios downtown -- the other two belonging to the Grand Woods lounge (77 Grandville SW) and the tavern on the square (100 Ionia Ave SW). The Woods’ patio, actually, is a three-season affair with warming torches that keep burning long after the leaves have fallen off the trees.
Downtown Grand Rapids boasts dozens of arts groups that will challenge and inspire you. Begin by attending a play at the Grand Rapids Civic Theatre (30 Division Ave. N). One of the largest community theaters in the country, the Grand Rapids Civic Theatre and School of Theatre Arts has been entertaining and educating West Michigan since 1925. Today, more than 120,000 audience members and 1,600 students enjoy nine productions each year in the refurbished Meijer Majestic Theatre. According to the theater’s Nancy Brozek, “A trip to the Civic Theatre combines the grandeur and charm of a historic theatre with performances that are relevant to contemporary life.” The theater kicks off its 85th year with the Michigan premiere of Blues Clues Live in September. The Civic will also be an ArtPrize venue for more than 12 artists, including collaboration with Very Special Arts. Fall classes for the School of Theatre Arts begin Sept. 27. Next stop Broadway, my pets.
The Public Museum of Grand Rapids (272 Pearl St. NW) is educational but not overwhelming. Founded in 1854 as the Grand Rapids Lyceum of Natural History, it is among the oldest history museums in the US. Almost every surface is covered with items made or owned by residents. Look for unusual objects that can spark deep discussions with kids, like Benjamin Franklin’s snuff box (addiction), a Grand Rapids Black Sox autographed baseball cap (segregation), stuffed passenger pigeon (extinction), Ivory Puzzle Ball (craftsmanship), Saudi Arabian Dagger and Scabbard (kick ass) and General Robert E. Lee’s Sword Sash (patriotism). The charming Streets of Old Grand Rapids exhibition must be seen. And, Jelani Eddington will play the museum’s 1928 Mighty Wurlitzer Theater Organ, a veritable one-man orchestra, on Sept. 17 and 18. The Chaffee Planetarium will host their Autumnal Equinox Festival on Sept. 17. Later that night, experience some of Pink Floyd’s greatest hits accompanied by dazzling visual effects in their second floor domed theater.
The Grand Rapids Ballet Company (341 Ellsworth Ave. SW) is the city’s artistic jewel. The only professional ballet company in the state, it performs family favorites like The Nutcracker and a full performance schedule at the DeVos Place (303 Monroe Ave.). The real excitement surrounds the company’s adventurous Dancers’ Theatre Series and the 
Ballet School. That popularity allowed it to expand its Ellsworth Avenue facility in 2006 and then build the adjacent LEED-Certified Peter Martin Wege Theatre in 2007. More recently, it named world-class dancer Patricia Barker interim artistic director. In September, the company will provide a venue for five artists for ArtPrize. It will also kick off its 2010-11 Guest Artist Series with the Luna Negra Dance Theatre from Chicago, which blends ballet and modern dance techniques with Afro-Caribbean dance forms. Luna Negra will give a Master Class for dancers on Sept. 23 and then present a one-night-only public performance on Sept. 24 in the Wege Theatre.
The Grand Rapids Art Museum (101 Monroe Center) is a cool white iceberg of visual arts to the Titanic of artistic ignorance and neglect that lingers in Grand Rapids. But not for long. The GRAM will host 43 artists during ArtPrize while also serving as a registration center. One of the artists will be Young Kim, winner of the 2009 Curatorial Award. His lyrical Salt and Earth installation will benefit from a more prominent venue. The popular Friday Nights at GRAM will include informal talks about volunteering, voting, visiting, and curating ArtPrize. The blockbuster exhibition will be Diana - A Celebration. It will be like a Gay Hajj. Opening Nov. 9, it will feature more than 150 personal objects including Diana’s royal wedding gown, 28 designer dresses, family heirlooms, personal mementos and rare home movies. Was she a neurotic, narcissistic, anorexic, borderline with a Jesus complex or the most influential female of the 20th Century? You decide!
South Division Avenue, between Weston and Williams, is known as the Avenue for the Arts. Or, Pot Alley by the police. This stretch of historic storefronts is where emerging artists, indie bands, yoga teachers, Butoh masters, and quirky retailers can be found downtown. The Avenue for the Arts Market fills the neighborhood with artists, performers, and craftspeople every couple months. Meet talented artists and buy some work at a great price. The Division Avenue Arts Cooperative (115 S Division Ave.) is a performance space run by volunteers who run all the other cool stuff in town. The DAAC tends toward bubble gum punk, acid emo and math metal. You can see six bands for around six bucks before they hit the big time. Scavenger Hunt (117 S Division Ave.) has been selling killer vintage clothing since 1987. You can find racks of the coolest rock t-shirts, vintage dresses and handcrafted hipster garb along with a full-service salon to stroke your fashion bone. Vertigo Music (129 S Division Ave.) has a huge selection of CDs, DVDs, and vinyl for your listening pleasure. Describe the kind of music you like and Owner Herm Baker or one of his astute employees will help you find the perfect new band to impress your friends. Commute Bicycle Shop (120 S Division Ave.) is where Poppa Steve gets his bike greased and tweaked and pumped. Let Owner Daniel Koert get you off your ass and on a cool pair of wheels.
Are you the guru of downtown Grand Rapids? Let Poppa Steve know at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it .
Photos: GR Public Museum: courtesy of the museum; GRAM: Steve Hall for the GRAM; Eve: courtesy of The BOB; Bistro Bella Vita and DAAC: Steven de Polo
Grand Haven is one of Michigan's most popular summer destinations. The beach town traces its history to a 1830s trading post for Jacob Astor's American Fur Company. Several years later, the settlers arrived. They cut all the timber and then Grand Haven transformed itself into a manufacturing and resort center. Much of this industry was aided and threatened by Lake Michigan and its violent storms. With its history as a commercial port of call and only three hours north of Chicago, Grand Haven offers Big City attractions and serene vistas of natural beauty. This is not Grandpa's tacky taffy fanny-packed tourist trap.
The Coast Guard Festival, July 30-Aug. 8, is the crown jewel of Grand Haven. The U.S. Life Saving Service, which merged with the pirate-fighting Revenue Cutter Service to create the Coast Guard, established a station in Grand Haven in the early 1900s. Grand Haven held a picnic with rowing competitions for Coast Guard personnel in 1924 and the first Coast Guard festival was held in 1937. Today, organizers expect to welcome 350,000 visitors to Coast Guard City U.S.A. The festival offers a variety of patriotic and family friendly events. The Coast Guard's National Memorial Service will be held at Escanaba Park on Friday, Aug. 6 at 4 p.m. The USO Liberty Bells will perform classic wartime songs by the Andrews Sisters and more on Friday at 7 p.m. on the Waterfront Stage. The festival's Fireworks Extravaganza has been called the best in Michigan. Held on Saturday, Aug. 7, the fireworks are shot from Dewey Hill and can be viewed from the Grand Haven Waterfront.
The Grand Haven Musical Fountain will entertain you during the fireworks, as it does every evening in the summer. Hailed as the World's Largest Musical Fountain - probably because New York City hasn't gotten around to building one yet - it is an engineering marvel. Built in 1962 by local business leaders for $250,000, the Liberace of water fountains processes more than 90,000 gallons of water with a synchronized display of water, lights and music. The 20-minute show begins at dusk and can be enjoyed from almost anywhere along the waterfront. Every night features a unique selection of songs and candy-colored liquid choreography. The Aug. 8 performance at 9:50 p.m. includes such toe-tapping tunes as "Top of the World", "Lore of the Loom", "Photograph", "La Traviata", The Incredibles' Theme, and "Old Time Rock and Roll'.
The Grand Haven Lighthouse was established in 1839. The current lighthouse and pier includes two lights, both painted red and dating to 1905 and 1922, respectively, connected by a lighted catwalk that runs to the boardwalk. Some teens like to jump off the pier into the crashing waves, where they learn the definition of "riptide." Others like to steal the life rings, meant to save the previously mentioned teens, as souvenirs. The site continues to evoke strong emotions. In 1987, Edward Zenko and daughter Sally raised $133,000 to rebuild the cast-iron catwalks and illuminate them. Then in June 2009, the Coast Guard retired the lights for transfer to community control. Our pinch-faced friends at PETA applied to convert them into the Fish Empathy Headquarters, with an educational center and vegetarian cafe, to memorialize the billions of fish killed annually by sport fishermen. Yum! Instead, the Grand Haven Lighthouse Conservancy took control.
The Grand Haven Boardwalk runs two-and-a-half miles along the harbor, starting at the City Marina and ending at the Grand Haven Pier and Lighthouse. It is lined with shops, restaurants, marinas and charter fishing boats. The boardwalk runs into the Grand Haven State Park (1001 Harbor Ave.), which consists entirely of beach sand and provides scenic views of Lake Michigan and the Grand Haven Pier and Lights. The 48-acre park is the most developed of the three beaches in Grand Haven. It boasts large paved parking areas, playground equipment, picnic tables, charcoal grills, public restrooms, and 174 modern campsites. More rustic beach-goers will enjoy the Grand Haven City Beach and the Northshore Beach, located just across the harbor.
The Grand Haven Bike Paths are a healthy way to enjoy the waterfront. There are more than 100 miles of bike paths throughout the area featuring the Lake Michigan shoreline, impressive sand dunes, quiet rural roads, woodlands, farms, and unique area attractions. The Lakeshore Connector runs for nearly 20 miles along the shoreline between downtown Grand Haven and Holland State Park, and is a favorite of bicycling enthusiasts. There are several beachfront parks along the way including Grand Haven State Park, Kirk Park, Tunnel Park, and Holland State Park. Camping is available at both state parks, however reservations should be made in advance. Free bike route maps are available at the Grand Haven Visitors Bureau office.
Exercise your brain at The Bookman (715 Washington Ave). The independent bookstore is located in a century-old building that once housed the Grand Haven Mercantile Exchange. With charming tin ceilings, free coffee, friendly staff, and lots of parking, the shop is popular with locals and visitors. The Bookman has a great collection of regional books and supports local authors. It also has a huge collection of award-winning children's books, popular with grandmothers and as baby shower gifts. 
It also has dozens of animal puppets that go great with the books. Look for excellent picture books like The Mud Fairy by Amy L. Young and challenging young adult novels like A Summer of Silk Moths by Margaret Willey. The shop will have a wine-and-cheese tasting on Aug. 12 to celebrate the publication of BOD-E-NOMICS by Viki Goldberg and GVSU-grad Wendy Schweifler.
Continue your education at the Tri-Cities Historical Museum (200 Washington Ave.). The museum has two locations: the 1870 Grand Trunk Railroad Depot, which the museum took over in 1972, and the newly renovated Akeley Building, built in 1871. The permanent exhibits explore Coast Guard and maritime history, Michigan geology, Native American traditions, the fur trade, and the lumbering eras. The Akeley building will host two summer exhibitions. A History of Banking will be based around an impressive collection of cash registers dating to the 1870s. The show will be enlivened by photo essays on the Baby Face Nelson Gang, which in 1933 robbed its first bank in Grand Haven. The other exhibition will feature 180 wood sculptures by artist Jim Ponchair. Each sculpture is a life-sized, hand-carved and hand-painted recreation of a bird native to Michigan. Sounds like a special treat for bird lovers, and confusing for cats, my pets.
Grand Haven has excellent an excellent beach cuisine, and by excellent I mean baked and fried and stuffed with meat. Make sure you stop at Waffle Queens on the Grand Haven Boardwalk. It's the only store in the country where you can get a stuffed waffle. The co-owners wanted to bring this Filipino treat to Grand Haven, but updated for 
American tastes. The menu ranges from savory stuffed waffles on a stick to sweet ones in a boat covered in whipped cream. The Filipino partners like the Reese's Peanut Butter Chips and the Wapple (spiced apple) waffles while their American husbands love the cheeseburger and The Godfather (pizza) waffles. Other wafflelicious concoctions include the Waffledog and the Wasausage. According to co-owner Luchi Nelson, "We always know when we have a first-time customer. There is awe, confusion, excitement, and anticipation when they order their first stuffed waffle."
Pronto Pup (313 S. Harbor Dr.) is a Grand Haven tradition. In 1947, a visionary named Charles (Chuck) Nelson built a 9' x 7' shack on a lonely strip of beach to sell the world's best corn dogs. His son Carl and Carl's wife Nancy continue the tradition. They dip Michigan-made hot dogs in special Pronto Pup batter, cook them to a golden brown in vegetable oil and serve them three ways. Carl likes his dogs naked. People from Chicago like them with mustard. You can also get them with ketchup. On a busy Saturday, Carl slings 1,000 Pronto Pups from what he calls "the world's most efficient kitchen." The biggest complaint is that they don't charge enough. At $1.75 per dog, Pronto Pup is proud to keep prices fair for its customers. The stand has served three generations of Grand haven residents and has fans all around the world. When asked about Pronto Pups popularity, Carl replied, "Pronto Pups has been the same for 63 years. It's something you can count on."
Butch's Beach Burritos (726 S. Harbor Dr) will stuff you too. Family owned and operated since 1987 by Liz and Jim Thayer, Butch's has watched its clients grow up and then bring their children. "Over 85 percent of our business comes from Grand Haven," said Liz. Popular items include the Original Beef and Bean Burrito and the Chiwawa Chili Dog, which is topped with taco meat, beans, cheese and salsa. They also make their world-famous guacamole fresh daily. The culinary Miss Carolita recommends guacamole on your hot dog, Chilean style. The casual restaurant is open five months a year and offers tasty choices for your little amigos. You can satisfy your burrito craving during the rest of the year at the Butch's Beach Burrito in Spring Lake.
The Kirby House (2 Washington Ave.) offers more upscale fare within walking distance of Lake Michigan. Located in a historic hotel, the building was completely renovated to create three restaurants: The Kirby, K2, and the Grill Room. Shake off the sand and head to the steakhouse, which balances Old World charm with a laid-back beach vibe. Chef Tom Webb Andrew Sprite has crafted an intelligent menu that spans the globe. Poppa Steve recommends the Prime Rib Dinner, with garlic whipped Yukon gold potatoes and roasted summer vegetables, and the Lobster Macaroni and Cheese, consisting of Monterey jack, asiago, cheddar, bleu cheese, gemelli pasta, Maine lobster and grape tomatoes. The Kirby House's deck is a favorite place to kick back and watch boats, cars, and people go by while listening to live music. Get there early because the service, like the sunsets over Lake Michigan, is unhurried.
The Grand Seafood and Oyster Bar (22 Washington Ave.) celebrates Grand Haven's seafaring history. Tucked into the lobby of Grand Theatre, which was built in 1927, the restaurant offers an incredible selection of oysters, sushi, seafood, and steaks. With original crystal chandeliers, wood paneling, and 120-gallon saltwater aquarium, the Grand is one of the most romantic restaurants in West Michigan. Specialties include Maryland Crab Cakes and the Roasted Salmon served in an Ancho chile glaze. The Grand is a sushi bar, with clever creations like Pete's Roll (tuna, avocado, spicy sauce), Tahitian Moon (tuna, avocado, mango) and the Hijiki Forest (tuna, hijiki, carrot). Don't miss Maki Mondays: $7 sushi 2 p.m. to close. It also offers live jazz and blues throughout the year as well as outdoor dining in the summer.
Got ssuggestions for where I should hang out? Send them to me at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it .
Photos: Tri-Cities Museum: Brittany Jacques; Pier: Ed Post; Fountain: Marci Cisneros; Waffle Queens: Sarah Asman
Saugatuck and Douglas are some of the most beautiful resort towns in Michigan. Virgin beaches, blue waters and clever shops. When you are there, you will notice gaggles of same-sex couples canoodling and cavorting on the boulevards. Don't be concerned. It's not the National Republican Congressional Committee. In fact, Saugatuck has been a Gay Mecca since 1951. That’s when Judy Garland stumbled into town when her train, the Mackinac Hustler, broke down on the way to Chicago. A call went out to the Lavender Army to ease her stay with buckets of Vodka Gimlets, Slap and Tickle Charades and Guess What's in My Bag. Judy departed days later, her constitution revived by the breezes off Lake Michigan and a handful of amphetamines. She left nothing but a rainbow scarf tied to a pole stuck in the sand and thus a tradition was born.
Continue your gourmet tour at Uncommon Grounds (127 Hoffman St.). The friendly and attractive cafe offers the best tasting coffee and baked goods in town. All of the coffee is roasted on site in small batches and organic and fair-trade whenever possible. Miss Carolita likes something sweet with her latte and Uncommon Grounds bakes everything in-house. Casey, the manager, suggests the Michigan Cherry Turkey Sandwich. The shop also fosters a sense of community in Saugatuck by hosting a free music series. July performances include folk singer Clifford Babcock from Battle Creek (July 3), indie artist Jes Kramer (July 10), Chicago blues artist Keith Scott (July 16) and Grand Rapids punk band Four For Smoking (July 24).
When hotdogs and chalky fudge get old, make your way to Marro's Italian Restaurant (147 Water St.). Frank and Lyn Marro opened the restaurant in 1971 and it continues to offer the
finest authentic Italian food. According to co-owner Frank Marrow, "My favorite dish is the Linguine Ala Pescatore with clams, mussels shrimp and scallops. I like it on the spicy side in a red sauce." The most popular dish is lasagna and the thin-crust pizza is a favorite with families. Look for the Wednesday Pizza Special: any large two item pizza for $10. A metamorphosis takes place at 10 p.m. as Marro's changes from a restaurant to the hottest dance club in Saugatuck. Cool off with one of its signature chocolate martinis or sip a glowing concoction of rum, triple sec and pineapple juice known as the Lucky Charm. "They're magically delicious!"Everyday People Cafe (11 W. Center St.) in Douglas offers a fresh take on gourmet classics in a casual, hip atmosphere. The restaurant's history goes back to 1977 when Margaret Balmer began waiting tables at what was then the Douglas Dinette. She and a partner bought the dinette in 1980 and eventually she was the sole owner and cook with help from her son Matt. When he graduated with a culinary arts degree in 1997, the dinette was transformed into the Everyday People Cafe. The restaurant still serves food cooked from the soul and served with kindness and respect. You will find eclectic comfort food like Otto's Farm Chicken and Dumplings, Grilled Lamb Chops rubbed with smoked paprika and sherry and Dancing Goat Salad with goat cheese, Bibb lettuce, purple onions and rhubarb vinaigrette. For dessert, try the Napoleon Crème Brûlée sitting in a puddle of raspberry sauce. The five-course Monthly Wine Dinner is a steal at $55 per person.
Families will love Crane's Pie Pantry Restaurant (6054 124th Ave.), which is 20 minutes away in Fennville. Crane's was founded when H.B. Crane bought the H.H. Hutchins Farm in 1916 to start an orchard. Today it offers a variety of delicious fruits and baked goods "We just wrapped up putting 8,000 pounds of rhubarb into desserts," said Becky Crane. She said that the pantry's bestseller is the double-crusted 10-inch apple pie. "It's all American!" she said. They also offer cherry, blueberry and red raspberry pies. Crane's Farm will have U-Pick sweet cherries by the end of June or the first of July. Peaches in August, and apples in September through October. Hay rides and a corn maze start in the fall. The antique-laden restaurant offers homemade sandwiches, burgers, soups and salads. Look for Crane's new venture on 8th Street in downtown Holland this summer. Crane's in the City will serve all of its tasty foods in a more urban setting.After all of that noshing, spend a couple nights at the Belvedere Inn Restaurant (3656 63rd St.). The inn humbly refers to itself as a "Mini Versailles." Sitting on five acres of beautifully manicured grounds, the upscale hotel is charming yet dramatic. The Prairie style structure was designed by Dwight Perkins, a colleague of Frank Lloyd Wright and built in 1913 as a private summer home for the Williamson family. In 1995, the "Big House" was fully restored by two former Chicagoans, Shaun Glynn and Pete Ta. Reserve the Belvedere Suite ($325/night) on the second floor and lounge like the Sultan of Brunei with a queen bed, fireplace and whirlpool. Or get a standard room Sunday through Thursday for only $595.
"Saugatuck is great for shopping," said Felicia Fairchild, executive director of the Saugatuck-Douglas Convention & Visitors Bureau. She recommends the Spice Merchants (115 Butler St.), a fragrant shop offering exotic dried herbs, spices and teas; Del Sol (201 Culver St.), which offers t-shirts and many other fun products that change color in the sun; Art Glass Alcove (142 Butler St.), a beautiful boutique with artisan jewelry, fashion accessories, art glass and bath luxuries; the Summertime Market (176 Blue Star Highway), offering organic and hand-crafted fruit, vegetables, meat, bread and cheese in a charming roadside stand; and, The Olive Mill (220 Culver St), which encourage you to taste olive oils and balsamic vinegars from around the world that can add an explosion of flavor to your Hamburger Helper.
Theatre is an important part of the Saugatuck lifestyle. The Mason Street Warehouse (400 Culver St.) produces professional, New York quality theatre in the Saugatuck Center for the Arts in the former freezer of Rich's Pie Factory. The lively audience hails from across West Michigan as well as Chicago, Indiana and other states. Mason Street specializes in highly rated musical productions, like Dirty Rotten Scoundrels (June 25-July 18). The theater offers more bawdy fare like Dixie's Tupperware Party (July 21-Aug. 1), which features the statuesque Dixie Longate straight from the trailer park in Alabama. Individual tickets are $39.75 and season tickets for four shows are $100 and up.
The Waterfront Film Festival turns Saugatuck into a virtual movie theatre. Every June, filmgoers, actors, producers and directors come together to enjoy outstanding independent films from all over the United States. Entertainment professionals from Los Angeles, New York and Michigan launched the festival in 1999 to provide a "middle coast" venue for independent filmmakers eager to show their work to sophisticated audiences. The festival has featured 16 world premieres from 2004 to 2009 and the Midwest premieres of Napoleon Dynamite, Open Water and Harold and Kumar go to White Castle. Look for the next Waterfront Film Festival in June 2011. Sitting with 300 people on folding chairs in a boat shed while watching films made far away from Hollywood is a treat.
Get out of the dark and enjoy the beaches of Saugatuck and Douglas. Saugatuck Dunes State Park is rustic yet beautiful. The 1,000-acre park boasts 2.5 miles of secluded shoreline with coastal dunes that are more than 200 feet tall. The park is popular with nature enthusiasts, who will look for three endangered plant species, as well as birdwatchers, hikers and rock collectors like the special Miss Carolita. Oval Beach, meanwhile, is rated among the 25 best shorelines in the world. It has the right combination of sand dunes, seclusion and services that create its cachet. Discover it best by riding across the Kalamazoo River on the hand-cranked Chain Ferry. Climb 282 steps to Mount Baldhead then descend onto the grassy coastal sands.
The northern section of Oval Beach is a private Gay Beach set aside for same-sex sun worshippers. Clean and unspoiled like an altar boy, it is one of the finest gay beaches in the country. There is a gay area with racks for cargo shorts and a lesbian area with a softball diamond. The back dunes are perfect for hot, steamy, oily sunbathing and Greco-Roman wrestling in the nude.
Gay vacationers will want to get a room at the Dunes Resort Bars (333 Blue Star Highway) on 20 acres of forests and dunes. Owners Mike Jones, Danny Esterline and Greg Trzybinski purchased The Douglas Dunes in 1999 and renamed it "The Dunes Resort." Since then, the trio has worked tirelessly to perpetuate a gay-safe haven while offering top-shelf lodging and entertainment. The same-sex motel offers rooms that range from tasteful to trashy while the newly built hotel is more middlebrow. The resort includes a nightclub with the best DJs, a cabaret with live entertainment, an outdoor patio bar and rowdy pool bar. Get your bump and grind on and then explore the woods to release all that tension. Look for the July 2 Tea Dance with DJ Tony Moran.
Do you get saucy in Saugatuck and daring in Douglas? Let your Poppa know at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it .
Photos: Felicia Fairchild and Ryan Pavlovich
When asked about Muskegon, everyone proudly proclaims it the Beer Tent Capitol of the World. It's true. I went to the Muskegon Summer Celebration and all the locals were in the beer tents, ignoring George Thorogood and the Destroyers who looked like my Aunt Faithy. When this reporter asked for the secret side of Muskegon, a friend with a troubling attraction to androgynous vampires and pre-pubescent boy bands told a frightening tale of innocence lost amidst the haunted halls of the abandoned North Shore Mental Hospital.
Glenside Pub (1508 West Sherman) is a great introduction to Muskegon pub grub. Miss Carolita and I took our girls there on a Saturday afternoon. It was surprisingly sunny with pleasant smells wafting from the kitchen. Our waitress recommended the 17" Grand Finale Pizza, which has pepperoni, ham, salami, sausag
e, bacon, mushrooms and green peppers. Our little girl Lourdie is lactose intolerant, so we wanted to avoid dairy if we were to survive the drive back to Grand Rapids. Our two girls had spaghetti with garlic toast. I had the Italian Sausage sandwich and fried onion petals. Miss Carolita had the Michigan Cherry Chicken Salad, which was colorful and filling. The pub has a cute bar in back with $2 appetizers, $2 well drinks and $.75 Bud Light drafts from 3-6 p.m.
The Station Grill (910 W Broadway Ave) is another Muskegon landmark. Charlie Meyers opened the grill in 1972, because he had been craving a burger hot off the grill with a cold beer. He built the restaurant in the former Parkway Leonard service station, which inspired the colorful, car-crazy style. The grill is known for its gourmet burgers, as well as Tex-Mex favorites and award winning chili. Go with a big group of friends, my pets, and load up on the goodness. Begin with the large Nachos Supreme with beef, and then try the Chicken Wet Burrito, Cajun Style Blackened Burger, a Mushroom and Banana Pepper Burger, Buffalo Wings and a basket of Parmesan Cheese Fries. The Station Grill has ample parking and it is larger than it looks from the outside, so you'll be seated quickly. Some may be troubled by the use of plastic utensils and styrofoam plates.
The Dog 'n Suds Drive-in (4221 Grand Haven Rd, Norton Shores) is an actual 1950s diner popular with people from Grand Haven to Grand Rapids. Dogs 'n Suds has been around since the 1950s with hundreds of franchises throughout the Midwest. Today, a handful of locations have survived by staying focused on their "World's Creamiest Root Beer" and drive-in service. David Hosticka and his family have been Dogs 'n Suds owners for 45 years. They bought the Norton Shores location in 2006 and refurbished it, building a new restaurant within the 1950s shell. The location includes a year-round 68-seat diner, a classic drive-in with carhops in roller skates and a seasonal ice cream shop. "My favorite meal is a couple Coney Dogs, a Charbroiled Burger and Root Beer Float in a frosted Mug with hand-scooped vanilla ice cream," said David. Dogs 'n Suds is located near Harbor Town and the Muskegon Airport.
Hearthstone (3350 Glade St) proves that not everything is deep fried in Muskegon. The Hearthstone was founded in 1975 to offer gourmet sandwiches, farm-fresh salads and made-from-scratch soups. That focus on quality and freshness continues today. Hearthstone boasts a classic bistro look with soft lighting, high-backed booths, cherry wood details and vintage French posters. Let the knowledgeable and talented wait staff walk you through the eclectic menu. You will be dazzled by the French country pâtés, Beef Carpaccio, Steak and Pommes Frites and Chicken Crepes with Wild Mushrooms. The Hearthstone also features popular annual events such as a Beaujolais Nouveau in November, an Oktoberfest celebration, and great weekly promotions. Try Two Moo Monday (two steaks for $16.99), Inspired Perch Tuesdays (two for $19.99) and Flats and Crafts on Wednesdays (two flatbreads and salad for $15.99).
When this reporter sent out a query for the best places to eat in Muskegon, he got numerous suggestions that deserve mention. Fricano's Pizza (1050 West Western Avenue) is famous for its thin-crust pizza and over-the-top attitude in a warehouse environment. The Bear Lake Tavern (360 Ruddiman Rd) is a North Muskegon landmark known for its lake perch and handmade burgers, which is accessible by boat as well as car. Pints & Quarts (950 West Norton) offers a large Scotch selection and numerous craft brews. Mia and Grace (1133 3rd St) is a charming bakery/bistro with many organic and vegetarian options.
People in Muskegon also like to have fun. The Alley Door Club (425 W Western Ave) presents some of some of West Michigan's finest jazz and blues musicians. The 250-seat space, which is operated by the Frauenthal Center for Performing Arts, offers a nightclub atmosphere. It is located on the third floor of the Hilt Building and is accessed from the alley between the Chronicle and Frauenthal Buildings. With the 2009-10 season including musical heavyweights such as Big Daddy Fox, Edye Evans Hyde, the Root Doctor and The Buster Blues Band, the Alley Door Club is worth a trip to Muskegon. Shows are 7-10 p.m. on the second and fourth Fridays from January through May. Tickets are $6, cash bar and food by Mr. T's BBQ.
The Muskegon Museum of Art (296 West Webster Avenue) is considered one of the country's premier art museums for a town the size of Muskegon. Endowed by Charles H. Hackley's Picture Fund, this world-class museum houses stunning works of art such as John Steuart Curry's thrilling "Tornado Over Kansas," Joos van Cleve's lovely "Saint Jerome in Penitence," and Edward Hopper's "New York Restaurant," which is the only Hopper in the state. The museum also organizes thoughtful and beautiful exhibitions. This summer, you will enjoy "Color It Bizarre: Claire Cliff Pottery from a Michigan Collection," an exhibition of colorful geometric pottery designed by Carice Cliff in the 1920s and ‘30s. You will also get to see "A Collector's Gift: Works by Walter Shirlaw and J. Frank Currier." This intimate show of works on paper shows how the Munich School was a popular training ground for American artists in the 1870s and ‘80s.
Movie lovers will enjoy the Harbor Theater (1937 Lakeshore Drive), Muskegon's only source of independent and foreign cinema. Brendan and Jen Pelto reopened the historic movie house as a nonprofit organization in April 2008. The theater shows top-rated movies as well as art-house fare that are not shown in mainstream West Michigan theaters. Put down the Netflix and watch a movie with other movie lovers. Tickets are $6 adults, $5 members,, $4.50 students and $4 seniors.
The Getty Drive-In (920 E Summit Ave) offers another movie experience. The Getty is one of only 10 drive-in theaters left in Michigan. Opened in 1949 by Nik Kuris as the NK Drive-In, it was bought by Jack Loeks in 1967 and renamed the Getty Drive-In. In 1980, three additional screens were added. The drive-in has nine lives - it was nearly closed for redevelopment and the screens have been damaged by high winds every couple years. Enjoy the strange and wonderful experience of watching a movie in your car while you still have the chance. Shows begin about 15 minutes after sunset; arrive early to get your spot and visit the candy concession.
Muskegon is also rich in outdoor activities. Muskegon State Park (3560 Memorial Drive) is one of the cleanest city beaches on the Great Lakes. Better yet, it is free and never crowded. The vast expanse of Great Lakes sand beach ranks among the most beautiful in the world. The 1,200-acre park has two miles of shoreline on Lake Michigan and one mile on Muskegon Lake that is protected by forested dunes. Sit on the white sand and reflect on the history of the Mullet - Cain David Judas Charlemagne Andrew Jackson Billy Ray Cyrus Ben Roethlisberger. Or play beach volleyball and soccer.
P.J. Hoffmaster State Park (6585 Lake Harbor Road) features forest-covered dunes along nearly three miles of Lake Michigan shores. The main attraction is the Dune Climb Stairway, a vicious and miserable contraption. Miss Carolita insists on climbing all 11,217 stairs to an observation deck that offers a panoramic view of the dunes and Lake Michigan followed by a trip to the local Emergency Room. Poppa Steve has suggested the installation of an escalator to the Park Rangers to no avail.
Dogs love Norman F. Kruse Park (Sherman and Beach Streets). This dog-friendly park has about one mile of Lake Michigan beach with four picnic shelters and an access ramp from the beach into the dunes. Dogs are allowed off their leash along the northern part of the park. Muskegon County is also home to three bike trails. The City of Muskegon Lakeshore Trail, the Musketawa Trail on the east side of the county and the Hart-Montague Trail State Park in the northern section of Muskegon County provide many opportunities to explore. Grab your bike and enjoy the natural beauty and charm of Muskegon from your bike.
Are you a Muskegon Maven? Send me a note at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it .
Kalamazoo is a city of dreamers and explorers. The first residents were the Hopewell culture, who built massive earthen mounds (visible in Bronson Park), then disappeared. The Pottawatomi Indians gathered in the area while French trappers and British traders passed through. Titus Bronson established the town of Bronson in 1831. Titus was quite eccentric and after he was arrested for stealing a cherry tree, the city was renamed Kalamazoo. Also called the Celery City, it has been home to pill poppers, massive paper mills, and the Michigan Asylum for the Insane.
Kalamazoo kicks off summer during its Wonderful Weekend, June 3-5. Get an early start to the weekend with the Greek Festival on Thursday. Started 34 years ago in the basement of Theo and Stacy's Dionysos Restaurant, the festival is a three-day celebration of Greek culture with a variety of foods, a Greek market, and Greek entertainment. Mmmm, moussaka. On Friday, begin with the Historic Walking Tour led by the very literary Lynn Houghton. Then, stop by the Art on the Mall with nearly 100 artists displaying fine art and crafts on the Kalamazoo Mall. Conclude the day with the Art Hop. Stroll throughout the downtown area, enjoying art and meeting artists at more than 50 galleries, restaurants, and other locations.
The Do-Dah Parade brings the weekend to a wild and wacky close. Begun 27 years ago, the parade is internationally famous for its "anything goes" spirit. More than 30,000 people will watch the parade, which includes local groups, organizations and businesses poking fun at themselves. The only rule is to do a clever parody of current events. Poppa Steve will be looking for tipsy Tea Baggers, Sarah Palin clones, Death Panel Poodles and the Michigan Muffin Militia. So, who's your Do-Dah?
People line up for Food Dance (401 E. Michigan Ave.) as well. The restaurant offers amazing meals, expertly made with fresh ingredients in a relaxed atmosphere. You can see the quality and love on the plate. Executive Chef Robb Hammond recommends the pancakes. Food Dance makes its own batter so the pancakes are light and fluffy, like a Sarah Palin editorial. Food Dance's Mac and Cheese is famous. Made with Rustichella pasta, local cream and Grafton sharp cheddar, it is gourmet comfort food. Stop in the Food Dance Market on the way out and pick up a flourless chocolate Cat's Meow Cake. "We are very lucky to be in a community like Kalamazoo that appreciates good food," Hammond said.
Try Rustica (236 S. Kalamazoo Mall) for an Old World dining experience. The 50-seat restaurant specializes in rustic meals found in France, Italy and Spain. These simple dishes are made with no more than five ingredients with an emphasis on supporting local farmers. Noting that a new menu debuted in April, Co-owner Bill Weier said, "We're excited to show the best that Michigan has to offer." Chef de Cuisine Adam Watts has trained in kitchens in Europe, Colorado and Michigan. Look for the Golden Fig Stuffed Pork Loin with roasted parmesan polenta and sautéed greens. Or, try the Mushroom Farrotto made with porcini, oyster and crimini mushrooms. With the kitchen centered in the dining room, you can watch the chefs in action, just like on the Food Network.
Two more Kalamazoo restaurants are worth mentioning. Fandango (247 S. Kalamazoo Mall) is the tapas restaurant that every city needs in order to be taken seriously. Enjoy the cozy ambiance as you explore the menu, which ranges from salads to grilled fish to tapas selections. Make sure you try the saffron infused seafood paella. Go with a group and remember to share, my pets. Epic Bistro (359 S. Kalamazoo Mall) is the place to go for a romantic meal. Take your girlfriend, or even your wife. Signature items include Cedar River Farms steaks and chops, gourmet wood-fired pizzas and extensive wine selection. Look for Chef Encarnacion's Taste 3 Menu with a trio of complimentary dishes made from scratch every weekend.
The release of Bell's Oberon is the second most important holiday in West Michigan. It's right after the anniversary of Rob Bliss' first pubic hair. Go see where Oberon and dozens more beers are brewed at Bell's Brewery and Eccentric Café (355 E. Kalamazoo Ave.). Founded by Larry Bell as a home-brewing supply shop in 1983, Bell's is the oldest craft-brewer east of Boulder, Colo. Bell's succeeded by teaching people to appreciate robust, full-bodied ales in a sea of fizzy pond water. In 1993, the Eccentric Café opened and Bell's became the first Michigan brewery to serve beer by the glass. Make sure you try award-winning brews like Bell's HopSlam Ale and Two Hearted Ale. The café's menu includes interesting pub grub with numerous vegan options. Head out to the Beer Garden, where you can enjoy your meal and beverage in the fresh air. Jam bands perform Thursday through Saturday. Cash only.
Shakespeare's Pub (241 E. Kalamazoo Ave.) is a more relaxed bar popular with the college kids. The pub opened in the former Shakespeare and Co. building in 2003. The owners doubled the pub's size in 2007 and added a patio that seats 125 people. Shakespeare's Pub has 31 beers on tap, from schwag like PBR to microbrews like Short's Huma-Lupa-Licious. The pub offers specials every day, like $2.25 well drinks on Wednesdays. Its monthly Brewery Series highlights regional brewers. Look for tasty offerings from the Capitol Brewing Co. on May 25. The St. Patrick's Day Party at Shakespeare's Pub has been called the best in Kalamazoo. The festivities kick off with Guinness and Lucky Charms at 7 a.m. They're magically delicious!
You can find more wine and beer at Tiffany's Wine & Spirit Shoppe (1714 W. Main St.). Brothers Saad and Habib Mandwee, co-owners of Rustica, have provided Southwest Michigan with handpicked selections of adult beverages and specialty foods at reasonable prices for 30 years. Tiffany's is more than just a wine shop. The 6,000-square-foot retail space stocks more than 100,000 items including fine chocolates, gourmet foods and imported beer. The walk-in humidor has a superb selection of cigars ranging from $2 "It's a Boy" smog sticks to sensuous Romeo y Julieta Silver Collection 9 packs for $80. Tiffany's also offers regular tastings for Small Batch Bourbons, Irish Whiskeys and German Estate Wines.
Lana's Couture (125 S. Kalamazoo Mall) offers tasty clothes and shoes for adventuresome shoppers. Owner Lana Hawkins has been dressing the fashion-conscious college set at Lana's Boutique for several years. She opened Lana's Couture to serve the fashion-conscious professional woman. Featured brands include Laundry, ABS, French Connection, PJ Salvage, Ella Moss and Naughty Monkey. Lana says to look for lots of bold colors, with bright, funky patterns this season. Gladiator sandals will be hot for spring and summer as well as super skinny jeans, or "jeggings." She says Maxi dresses will still be popular while accessories and handbags should make a statement - the bigger the better. Look for Lana, always casually elegant, sporting her favorite jeans by Citizens of Humanity. She will be joined by her two shop kitties, Jazzy and Patsy, which she rescued off the street.
Gazelle Sports (214 S. Kalamazoo Mall) sells apparel that not only looks good, it helps you feel good. The locally owned store has the variety of a big box store with the customer service of a specialty boutique. Gazelle's Joan Orman says that Vibram Five Fingers Shoes are hot right now. Other popular buys include Adidas' miCoach running sensors as well as compression apparel, which helps to accelerate recovery. Most people go to Gazelle for properly fitted running shoes. Get a pair for the Fifth/Third River Bank Run on May 8 or the Komen Southwest Michigan Race for the Cure on May 16. Gazelle even donates shoes for Girls on the Run, which trains girls in third through eighth grade to finish a 5K race. The Kalamazoo event, which is one of the largest in the country, will be held on May 27. Go down and cheer them on.
Athletes can challenge themselves at Climb Kalamazoo (136 S. Kalamazoo Mall). Opened in 1996, Climb Kalamazoo is Southwest Michigan's premier indoor climbing gym with more than 10,500 square feet of climbing surface. With 32 top rope stations, lead cave and two top-out bouldering areas, there is always something to try. Philip and Kristin Grimm bought the gym two years ago. "I like climbing, because it requires my entire concentration. I am not thinking about anything else," said Philip. "Unlike team sports, someone doesn't have to lose for me to succeed." Boy Scout troops spend the night at the gym to earn their merit badges. Families go because everyone can climb together. When the weather warms up, test your skills at Oak Park in Grand Ledge near Lansing or spend the weekend climbing at the Wisconsin Dells or New River Gorge in West Virginia.
A couple of family friendly destinations are also worth mentioning. Miss Carolita suggests you visit the Kalamazoo Nature Center (7000 N. Westnedge Ave.). The center boasts 1,100 acres of wooded, rolling countryside only five miles north of Kalamazoo. Its educational programs include hands-on programs like a Raising Chickens workshop on May 4 and a Wildflowers after Work nature walk on May 6. The Air Zoo (6151 Portage Rd. in Portage), meanwhile, celebrates the spirit of aviation. The thrilling museum includes flight simulators, a 4D theater and a zero gravity experience. There are more than 50 historic aircraft on display as well as numerous historical exhibits and educational activities. Check out Super Science Saturday on May 29, which will focus on World War II and how it all began.
Enjoy K-Zoo this summer and let me know what you discover ( This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it ).
Holland has developed two major events that bring big crowds to party in the downtown shopping district. The Street Performer Series runs every Thursday from June 10 to August 26. This summer, you will be able to see more than 50 local, national, and international performers in 20 locations. They will include musicians, balloon artists, face painters, theatrical troupes, break dancers, magicians, jugglers, acrobats, and stilt walkers. Remember to tip GENEROUSLY!
GrooveWalk showcases music for every taste-80s, blues, country, hip-hop, jazz, reggae, rockabilly, and more-in hip venues like restaurants, pubs, and theatres. Thousands of people flood downtown for Groovewalk, which will be held April 24-25 and October 16-17, 2010. "We created GrooveWalk in 2008 to promote downtown Holland as a nightlife destination," said Mimi Fritz, Downtown Holland's marketing director.
After partying downtown, get a cup of organic Java at Lemonjello's Coffee (61 E 9th St). The big city-style coffee shop is always buzzing. "We see ourselves as a community center," said Owner Matthew Scott. Customers range from students at Hope College to people working downtown. The talented baristas take pride in accurately serving fairly traded coffee and espresso drinks that are delicious. "Lemonjello's is also one of the longest running all-ages music venues in Michigan," Scott said. With its Friday evening shows, the shop hopes to introduce people to music that is sincere and beyond fashion with a pop sensibility. Recent acts include Mosquito Fleet from Marion, Ind. and Call Me Anadarko from Chicago. Cover is only $3.
The Holland Peanut Store (46 E. 8th St) is just as passionate about perfectly roasted nuts. Joseph Fabiano started the small nut shop in 1902 and the Fabianos have proudly worked in the shop ever since. His great-great granddaughter Paula Fabiano and her sisters and a brother currently run the Holland Peanut Store. "Everyone in the family participates," said Fabiano proudly. The shop is known for its freshness. "Candy is an affordable luxury. A little something sweet makes you feel happy," said Fabiano. Her brother Tom roasts more than 25 types of raw nuts, and their parents are retired. This means they only work as the chief chocolatiers, dipping the nuts in top-shelf white, dark, and milk chocolates. The store also offers hard-to-find candy like Mallo Cups and Necco Wafers. After asking about this reporter's ethnicity ("You're a paisan!"), Fabiano said, "In a nutshell, we treat the customer like family. Holland has supported us through thick and thin."
The Boatwerks Water Front Restaurant (216 Van Raalte Avenue) has many ways to satisfy your hunger. Boatwerks has a relaxed elegance and unhurried service that reminds one of simpler times. Grab a lakeside table, enjoy a spectacular sunset, and tuck into one of the restaurant's specialties. Boatwerks is known for its Tournedos Alaskan, including six ounces of pan seared beef tenderloin medallions topped with shrimp, sea scallops, and premium crabmeat. It's served with fresh green beans and finished with Béarnaise sauce.
Despite its cautious reputation, Holland is emerging as a foodie destination. Start your feast at Montello Meat Market (746 Michigan Ave). This old-fashioned butcher shop, named after Holland's Montello Park, opened 45 years ago. It moved to its current location in the mid-80s and is now owned by Tony Larson. Montello is known for locally raised, grass-fed, dry-aged, hormone-free beef. "We care about how the meat is treated at the farm and in our store," he said. Customers come in with recipes from the Food Channel or Cook's Illustrated that call for cuts not found in the supermarket. "We can match up the cuts or suggest other options," Larson said.
Take your kitchen skills to the next level at Nectar Gourmet (305 E. Central Ave, Zeeland). Chef Susan Bartolomei taught healthy cooking techniques while operating a successful catering business. She merged these passions by hosting cooking classes in her historic home. Nectar offers a wide variety of classes to suit all skill levels and learning styles. Topics include Basic Patisserie, Guys and Pies, and Simply Soups. Held in her professional kitchen, the two-hour classes begin with a demonstration by Chef Susan. Then students begin preparing their part of the meal. Everyone feasts at the end. "Holland is becoming more adventuresome," said Bartolomei. "People want to delve into global cuisines and try new techniques."
Parrots Lounge (234 South River Avenue) will satisfy your more primal thirsts. A college bar and local hangout, Parrots reminds you of what you'll find at a Big Ten School. "There's nothing like it in town," said Owner Bob Poole. The bar has Holland's only beer pong table, specials every night, a pool table, and patio seating in front and an outdoor bar in back during the summer. DJs spin the wheels of steel Thursday through Saturday nights. And there's mad drama when theological earnestness meets $2 bottles of Schlitz and Old Style on Thursdays. The sassy Miss Carolita's favorite drink is the Dirty Bird - Raspberry Stoli, 7-Up, cranberry juice, and Watermelon Pucker schnapps.
More refined palates will appreciate New Holland Brewing Company (66 East 8th Street). New Holland has grown from a scrappy two-man startup in 1996 to a thriving regional microbrewery. In 2005, it installed a 50-barrel Huppman brewhouse that was bought from a centuries-old German brewery, which allowed the brewery triple production. New Holland also brews beer and distills spirits in its pub, a former hardware store that oozes charm. The pub's menu is top-notch with excellent pizzas, sandwiches, and soups. Most of the beers on tap are small-batch specialty brews only found at the pub. Ask to take a tour of the pub's distillery, where the brewers make its Zeppelin Bend Straight Whiskey. You can also tour New Holland's production brewery (690 Commerce Ct) on Saturday afternoons for $5. Complimentary tastings may include a glass of Full Circle, a nicely balanced kölsch-style beer.
That beer is named after Full Circle Records (212 College Ave), which operates around the corner from New Holland. This hole-in-the wall record store has a little bit of everything. It is the only source in town for vinyl, which has seen a huge resurgence with music lovers. It has a wall of cassettes, DVDs, and stacks of old receivers. "It may look like a mish-mash, but we know where everything is," said Steve, the owner. He orders new music every day and watches Web sites like pitchfork.com to look for up-and-coming bands. "Terrestrial radio is killing music," Steve said. "We can lead customers to the bands they are looking for." Not only does Full Circle educate its customers, the staff also gives relationship advice. Try that at amazon.com.
My friend Ms. P. is one of those sophisticated Hollanders with an understated sense of style. She recommended Karla's Place (37 East 8th St). Karla's is a gift boutique tucked inside Tree House Bookstore and features local and national designers. Think etsy.com-type stuff, but with personal service. "We have gifts that will make you smile," said Karla Scheifele. She is extremely friendly and has a story for every item in her shop. She sells adorable $2 pewter charms made by a former graphic designer who remembered taking a jewelry class as an 8-year-old. She also sells handmade mittens made from recycled sweaters, and flirty scarves made from recycled t-shirts. Another designer turned nine greeting cards made on her kitchen table into a multi-million stationary business. You can find her new line of necklaces at Karla's Place.
Children big and small will enjoy Cobblestone Crafts & Hobbies (210 Central Ave). At 5,000 square feet, Cobblestone is the largest hobby shop in West Michigan. It offers a full line of radio controlled helicopters, replica plastic model kits, model rockets, model trains, and board games. "People are amazed when they walk in," said Owner Bob Harvey. "They aren't used to seeing such a variety of fun things to do and make all in one place." Poppa Steve wasted many hundreds of dollars from his paper route in hobby shops, making things that went fast, looked fast, and could blow himself up. Take your children to Cobblestone and spend some quality time with them. The memories will be priceless.
Miss Carolita says the entire family will enjoy the Holland Aquatic Center (550 Maple Ave). Holland has had a community pool since the late 1960s. The current facility became independent and expanded in the 1990s. Two blocks from downtown and next to Holland Hospital, the 86,000-square-foot facility is the perfect place for group outings, school field trips, and healthy family fun. It includes a 50-meter pool, a three-story, triple-spiral water slide, water playground, and aqua challenge obstacle course. The therapy pool is relaxing and kids will enjoy the splash zone with its numerous slides and water toys. The center's non-resident rates are $5.75 adults and $4.75 youths and seniors.
Now go "hang out" in Holland and have fun in this cool and convenient town. It will be worth the trip.
Photo: The Anchor Bar shot by Rudy Malmquist
The West Side is a rough and tumble area with dive bars and fun shopping only minutes from downtown. Some say Mayor Cornelius V. Butterman founded the area in the 1870s when he built the first Bridge Street Bridge. The new territory was settled by Polish and German families yearning for a land with a bar or church on every corner. More recent investments by Grand Valley State University and Bob Israels have helped to revitalize the working-class neighborhoods.
The Flamingo Lounge (930 Bridge St. NW) is famous for introducing karaoke to the West Side. It has been popular with pickled crooners and tone-deaf agoraphobes ever since. The Flamingo is pretty basic; there's a horseshoe-shaped bar filled with friendly neighborhood folk and a raised stage in back. The bar was run for many years by Don Wasker, but has since passed it to his son, Brent, who has owned the bar for more than 20 years. "I don't worry about marketing. I just serve good food and cheap drinks," he said. You'll like the $1.75 drafts - not much more than the Polish Halls - and the homemade soups and chili made by the bartender Mindy.
The Nite Cap Bar & Grill (801 West Fulton St.) also offers karaoke, but its story is more complicated. Owner Marv Sienkiewicz operated the El Dorado for 34 years. When the 100-year-old saloon had to be replaced, he built the Nite Cap right behind it. The new bar opened January 2004 and has high ceilings, outdoor seating, and professional sound that even West Siders expect. According to Jason, the new night manager, the Nite Cap has one of the best selections of bottled imported beers and microbrews on the West Side. The $2 drafts and $5 Jägerbombs are popular with college students. The bar also organizes bus trips to see the Detroit Lions and Tigers so the patrons can see the games together. "I like the area because of the wide variety of people," Jason said. "There's never a dull moment."
The Monarch's Club (646 Stocking Ave. NW) is a real gem. The 1893 building was a pharmacy and then a speakeasy during Prohibition. Owner Frank Lehman kept the name and touches like the white mosaic floor, brick walls, and black glass drink rail. He also added a tin ceiling, an antique bar mirror from Chicago, and an 80-year-old oak and glass display cooler. According to Jessica the bartender, the Monarch's Club is a "hole in the wall, but it's a nice hole in the wall." You will find microbrews and bottles of house wine for $10. It also has Vienna Beef hot dogs, Italian Beef sandwiches, and Paninis. Try the Heartwell Stacker, which has turkey, ham, lettuce, and honey mustard. They also serve chili made with the same recipe used by the old Red Lion Restaurants. You can get three Red Hot Chili Dogs and a six-pack of PBRs for $10.
Across the street you'll find the Kopper Top (638 Stocking Ave. NW). Built in 1898 as a grocery store, it operated as Frank's Tavern and Beer Garden for many years. It became the Kopper Top in 1972 when new owners covered the bar in a sheet of copper. They also began decorating the bar for the holidays. Current co-owner Dan Brown said that the tradition has become "tastefully tacky." They decorate for Halloween, Christmas, New Year's, Valentines Day, St. Patrick's Day, and Easter. Decorations only come down in the summer. While it may look like a bordello, food is the main attraction. The classic Polish Platter includes kielbasa, kapusta, pierogis, and golabki. They also serve the best liver and onions in town, sautéed in whiskey with onions and bacon. You won't find televisions or Keno screens at the bar, either. "People can actually talk to each other," said one long-time bar patron.
Salvatore's Italian Restaurant (654 Stocking Ave. NW) was opened by the Tinervia family in 1976 after they had moved to the U.S. from Sicily. Salvatore's moved a couple doors down in 1986 and they recently expanded. Its most popular pizza is the Taste of Grand Rapids, with ham, onions, sausage, Romano cheese, fresh basil, and Sicilian sauce. Or try the Chicken Spedini, which is skewers of boneless chicken breast rolled with ham and cheese, served with linguini and vegetables. One of the friendly waitresses, Rachel, said that the Salvatore's is busy on Sundays with families and bigger parties taking advantage of the Half-Off Pasta Special. "The food is really good here. I can't eat at any other Italian restaurant," she said.
Maggie's Kitchen (636 Bridge St. NW) is popular at lunch time. The cafeteria-style restaurant is decorated in bright colors with numerous pictures of Mexico and its rich culture. The cafe specializes in cuisine from the Michoacán region of Mexico and you can still find Magdalena "Maggie" Garcia at the stove. Her son Luis Ramirez will greet you with a smile and make sure your meal is special. I always order the Puerco En Salsa Roja Platter, with spicy pork and red chili sauce, beans, rice, and salad. Vegetarians will like the Veggie Burrito and the Avocado Salad served with tomato and lime wedges.
The Fourth Street Deli (528 Seward Ave. NW) is the West Side's other lunchtime destination. Chef Scott Schulz and General Manager Chris Sommerfeldt have created a menu with 100 sandwiches, 20 salads, and six soups every day. The shop is four times larger than their Cherry Street Deli, but no less charming. With its high ceilings and tall windows, you would never know that the building had once been covered in metal siding. The Leyden Panini with roasted chicken, Portobello mushrooms, and smoked provolone is popular, according to assistant manager John Bruha. Vegetarians prefer the Fifth Street Sandwich, with marinated tomatoes, roasted red peppers, artichokes, and mozzarella.
After a hearty lunch, you'll be ready to browse The Other Store Furniture Clearance Center (769 Seward Ave. NW). This massive, two-floor furniture store discounts showroom samples and odd lots from Israels Designs for Living, Klingman Furniture Company, Michigan Designs Resources, and The John Widdicomb Trade Center. It's perfect for an afternoon of browsing as you fantasize about outfitting your imaginary castle. "We want the store to be a more relaxed shopping experience. We always have a variety of premium pieces at great prices," James Israels.
Rejuvenate yourself after shopping at the Bitter End Coffee House (752 Fulton St. W), which is a favorite of the fanciful Miss Carolita. The only independent coffee shop on the West Side, the Bitter End is open 24 hours and has a no smoking policy. With wood-paneled walls and antique photos, the shop has a quirky scholarly feel that is popular with college students, especially late at night. All of the coffee is organic and fair trade. A barista named Steve said the most popular drink options are the French Kiss Latte, with white chocolate and French vanilla, and the Raspberry Mocha.
Renee Austin and Renee Austin Wedding (442 Bridge St. NW) have brought a touch of glamour to the area. Owner Angie Austin opened the brick-walled boutique a year ago and she offers a selection of luxurious dresses and gowns from Mori Lee, Sottero & Midgley, Jasmine, Jovani, and Alyce Designs. She opened a bridal shop in the fall. The location is ideal, since many of the couples who hook up at Montes next door have to come back to get their "white" wedding dresses and tuxes. When asked why she chose the West Side for her high-end shop, "I love the area," Angie said. "We're a destination shop so people come here from all over West Michigan. I would never want to move."
Current and future designers can shop around the corner at Service Reproduction Co. (345 Summer Ave. NW). Hidden in a nondescript industrial area, Service Reproduction is the only independent art supply store in Grand Rapids. The staff of working artists and large selection of specialty items make it the ideal store for college students, architects, and creative types. Todd, who has worked at the store for several years, noted that the store draws artists from Kalamazoo to Traverse City. "We don't make you wade through introductory supplies like at a crafts store or online," he said. Then he showed me a 1.5" sable watercolor brush by Kolinski for only $225.
Whether it’s grabbing a “bigger than average” shot at The Anchor Bar (447 Bridge St. NW), the Sunday morning Bloody Mary Bar at O’Toole’s (448 Bridge St. NW) or the bi-level lanes at The Clique (533 Stocking Ave. NW), the West Side has much to offer those who dare to try the other side of Grand Rapids.
cliquelanes.com, (616) 723-8626
reneeaustins.com, (616) 272-1231
servicereproduction.com, (616) 451-2901
4thstreetdeli.com, (616) 301-1344
tos-furniture.com, (616) 774-8389
salvatoresgr.com, (616) 454-4280
nitecapbar.com, (616) 451-4243
Bitter End, (616) 451-6061
Monarch's Club, (616)233-9799
Kopper Top, (616) 459-2001
Flamingo Lounge, (616) 774-2246
Maggie's, (616) 723-8626
