Thursday Sep 09
Monday, 21 June 2010 16:12

Bar Spotlight: The Viceroy

Written by J. Bennett Rylah
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martiniThe Viceroy is like a film set. Dark, with curtains covering the windows and entrance, 1930s jazz in the background. Checkered red and black floor, sleek wood bar, low red lights. The staff dresses in white, black and red, and bartenders don arm garters, vests and suspenders. The cocktail menu is expansive, offering an array of house infused liquors, mixed with syrups and tonics made from scratch.

One beautiful and charming bartender you'll find on a regular basis is Lydia Clowney, whose blog, scarydinner.blogspot.com, provides an interesting read on culinary quandaries and experiments. Clowney and Viceroy's expert team of tenders have managed to produce a stunning cocktail list featuring staple classics (Sidecar, French 75, Brandy Alexander) as well as their own concoctions and an inspired list of creations based on various worldly drinks and cuisines.

Consider the Sesame Souse, Clowney's invention.

"I wanted to create a drink evocative of people putting peanuts in RC Cola,” Clowney said. “But the peanut butter kept emulsifying, so I used tahini instead. With tahini, the drink wrote itself."

The ingredients: Pisco, vanilla syrup, cream, tahini and cardamom, served in a coupe. The drink has become quite popular, and Clowney has heard it described as something one could drink for breakfast. More specifically, the drink is similar to a nog — thick, strong, slightly sweet, with conflicting flavors that provide for a unique finish. Like most drinks at The Viceroy, the Sesame works best as a sipper. These drinks are to be savored, not shot.

The selections are many and varied, and it could be tough to choose just one, though most are quite strong and made with mostly, if not all, liquor. (Clowney said she thinks of flavorings like condiments.)
The Viceroy
53 Commerce SW, Grand Rapids
viceroygr.com, 616-774-VICE
Hours: Tues.–Sat.: 4 p.m.–2 a.m.
, Sun.: 4 p.m.–midnight, Closed Mon.

"Good drinks are all about balance," Clowney said, "If you're going to go crazy with one thing, you need to be restrained with others. It's also about having your own perspective that you convince others is the right perspective."

In addition to the cocktails, Viceroy does serve beer and wine and a small food menu of several appetizers and a few entrees.

Update!
The Viceroy has launched its website, and is now hosting live music on select nights. Hours have also changed, with the bar open Sundays from 4 p.m.–midnight and closing on Mondays.
Last modified on Thursday, 15 July 2010 19:17

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