In last month’s issue, we talked with several restaurateurs who have the uncommon approach of changing their menus regularly. Some of our readers might have wondered, “Hey, where’s Littlebird in this mix?!”
Well, a funny thing happened. Sometimes, as writers, we don’t get enough to work with when conducting interviews. Other times, we get a whole story in one conversation. And, that brings us to where we are today, after sitting down in-house with Littlebird’s GM, Christian Stachel.
The place was humming, despite the timing of our meeting being between lunch and dinner. That’s a testament to the robustness of Grand Rapids’ food scene, as well as its residents’ craving for something fresh and interesting. And, while Littlebird isn’t new—it was opened by owners Joel Wabeke and Sarah Wepman in 2017—what is new is what’s being created in the kitchen every week.
Originally hailing from Detroit, Stachel noted that Greater Grand Rapids’ population growth is surpassing the Motor City’s and that people are coming here from other larger cities, even as far away as the West Coast, often for greater quality of life and lower cost of living. With this influx comes the expectation of more diverse dining options—like what was available back home.
“I find that there aren’t enough places willing to offer that variety and originality to them,” Stachel said. And, while responding to a need is one thing, the Littlebird team is really operating more on a philosophy. “Within a small house, within a relatively small menu, there are so many ideas that we want to explore, and no one menu can possibly touch on all of those,” he said. “So, for us, it comes down to an approach that stems from our principles, and what we hold to be most important, including working closely in support of local food systems and West Michigan farms, as much as possible.”
Littlebird also tries to keep a balance between the real cost of quality ingredients from local farms and small suppliers, and a sense of real value for the quality and creativity of what’s being served—without sacrificing the integrity of their commitment, both to the ingredients and to their guests.
Working with smaller, local farms means working within finite parameters, especially with regard to shorter growing cycles for certain ingredients. But, limited availability from farms does create a positive tension that Stachel and all of the staff embrace.
“Chef Dave vanderLaan is a really creative and artistic-minded chef—and he’s always working on what’s next alongside me, always pushing things forward,” Stachel said. “When we draw together farms, from-scratch cooking, a talented chef, and working within relatively limited means, we have the opportunity to fall in love with things just in time for them to slip through our fingers. I know that sounds a bit romantic, but that’s really how it boils down.”
And, yet, for all the change, they do maintain a measure of consistency. Not only do they have staples that are continually on the menu, they also aim to satisfy expected categories. So, guests will always find vegan and vegetarian options, as well as pasta, seafood, cheese, and meat dishes.
“We’ve been adapting our strategy to ensure that, while we’re going to stay hyper seasonal with the menu changing all the time, we’re also creating a more approachable aspect,” Stachel said. “It really matters for us to be welcoming and comfortable and also reassuring that each time you come in, while things may change, no one is left behind. There are definitely a lot of open minded folks, too, who come in every week or two asking, ‘What’s new?’. We’re thankful for that.”
And, here’s where the conversation turned to the difference between “service” and “hospitality”. While providing service to customers is more or less an exchange that fulfills their needs, providing hospitality takes that transaction to the next level. “It’s about authenticity and soulfulness,” Stachel said. “It asks a different question: ‘What is it that we can do to improve someone’s life, if only for the short time that they’re with us?’”
Littlebird staff at every level embody hospitality by showcasing what they’ve explored locally, sharing their ideas and passion, and bringing the best to their clientele. “It’s a mark of welcome,” Stachel said. “Because if that’s our focus, and we start to ask ourselves questions about the measures we’re taking and the ways that we want to ensure that people feel cared for, the outcome is something that feels really considerate and respectful.”
That’s an attitude that extends beyond the customer experience and into the kitchen itself, where they strive to eliminate waste in every way that they possibly can. Whether it’s mushroom and vegetable trimmings, rendered fat, or whole chickens that they break down for stock or other flavorings, they try to use every part. “There’s a thoughtful responsibility that we hold to be very important,” Stachel said.
That’s something they don’t just talk about, but actually practice actively every day. “We are extraordinarily fortunate in West Michigan to have unbelievable access to amazing produce and beyond,” he said. “We want to honor that for the community we live in and for the people we serve.”
Littlebird
95 Monroe Center St NW, Grand Rapids
https://www.thelittlebirdgr.com/
